DETERMINING FIBER CONTENT:
First of all, before you even buy the dye you've got to know what kind of
fabric you're dealing with. If it says on the tag of the garment (or if
you're dyeing a length of fabric you bought in a store), well lucky you.
Otherwise, you've got to do a burn test. Get a few strings of the fabric
(*not* the thread used to sew the garment together) & set 'em on fire. Observe
carefully & use the following chart to figure out what you've got:
+---------------+---------------+-----------+----------+-----------+---------+ + + +Shrinks + + + + + Fiber +Burn/Melt +from flame +Odor +Residue +Other + +---------------+---------------+-----------+----------+-----------+---------+ +Cellulosic: + + + + + + + Cotton, Flax, +Burns only +No +Burning +fine grey + + + Jute, Hemp, + + +paper +ash + + + Ramie, Rayon + + + + + + +---------------+---------------+-----------+----------+-----------+---------+ +Protein: + + + + + + + Wool, Silk +Burns only +yes +Burning +black bead +self- + + + + +hair-Wool +which +extin- + + + + + +crushes to +guishes + + + + +Charred +black + + + + + +Meat-Silk +powder + + +---------------+---------------+-----------+----------+-----------+---------+ +Manmade: + + All may burn and melt, or may just melt. + +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
EQUIPMENT YOU NEED:
Rubber gloves are a must -- you can use either dishwashing gloves or latex
medical gloves... I don't suggest any rubber fetishwear gloves because you
probably will want to use them for something else later & that would be, er,
unsanitary.
You may also wish to get a particle mask (or at the least tie a cloth around your face). Inhaling dye powder is unpleasant & causes gross results in Kleenex usage for days afterwards.
Though you'll probably alread be clad in black, you may, if fastidious, wish to wear a smock. Dyeing is a messy job.
Be sure work in a ventilated area. Though most household dyes aren't hazardous, they do tend to smell bad, & you can never be too careful...
WHAT DYE DO I BUY?
A brand called Deka L is what I find to produce the deepest black. You have to
add salt if you're dyeing cotton or linen, and white vinegar if you're dyeing
silk or wool. The Dekart Company that makes Deka L also sells a fixative agent
which you should use if you'll be chucking your dyed garment in the washer
often.
Rit is extremely common & popular, but I don't personally suggest it, because their black usually turns out more of a bluey-grey. If you do buy Rit, you don't *have* to add salt (there's some in there), but you would have to add white vinegar if you're dyeing silk or wool.
You can try a brand called Cushing:All-Purpose Fiber Type if you've got a synthetic-fiber garment, but it'll probably wind up more grey than black.
I do not recommend Tintex brand dye, simply because most of the product is plain old table salt. (Read, won't get a dark black out of this one.)
I also don't recommend Procion dyes for home use because the process is complex and involved, & is easiest in a professional dyeshop situation.
ALT.GOTHIC.DYE.DYE.DYE
The actual process is easy if you're dyeing any of the fibers mentioned
above (except wool, to be dealt with later on). Just follow the directions
on the box. I usually prewash the garment in order to remove any sizing
(stuff to make the fabric "crisp") -- you'll end up with a blotchy job if
you don't prewash. (For wool, read pre-dry-clean)
For wool, soak your garment in room temp water. Put it in a pot of water and *SLOWLY* heat it up. I can't stress enough how important the gradual addition of heat is. Then, follow the directions on the package up to where you're supposed to rinse it out. *SLOWLY* let down the heat to room temp, then rinse in lukewarm water. It's not the temperature itself that shrinks wool, it's the shock of the temperature change. Obviously you can't to the Rit washing-machine method on this one. In general, I wouldn't do the washing machine deal. It wastes lots of water, & you have less control.
VELVET
Velvet comes in many different fiber combinations. If your particular garment
passes the burn test and is home-dyeable, follow regular dyeing directions.
After it's dry, iron it on a needleboard (available at most fabric
stores) and fluff up the pile.
If you're a paranoid hypochondriac and want a really high-tech respirator
to do these things, write or call
Foremost Safety Supply
62 W. 47th St. #205
NYC, NY 10036
(212) 719-2348
If you want to talk 1-on-1 with some people who really know their shit about
dyeing (and don't want to wait around on me to email you back), get in touch
with this company
Cerulean Blue, Ltd.
1314 NE 43rd St.
Seattle, WA 98105
(206) 634-2636
Introducing Dyeing & Painting, by Beryl Ash & Anthony Dyson.
Fabric Painting & Dyeing, by David Green.
The Dyer's Art, by Jack Larsen.
Textile Painting & Dyeing, by Nora Proud.
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